I spent two weeks in Italy and France expecting amazing coffee. I mean, espresso culture started there, right?

What I found was disappointing. Bitter, over-roasted shots served in seconds. Coffee was fuel, not experience. No single-origin pour-overs, no light roasts, no baristas explaining terroir.

Coming from the US where I'm spoiled by third wave shops, it felt like stepping back in time.

What Third Wave Coffee Even Means

The term comes from Trish Rothgeb in 2003. First wave was commodity coffee (Folgers). Second wave was Starbucks—coffee as experience, but still dark roasts and flavored drinks.

Third wave treats coffee like wine: origin matters, processing methods matter, roast profiles showcase rather than mask flavors. Light roasts, pour-over methods, direct trade sourcing.

In the US, this is everywhere now. Intelligentsia, Stumptown, Counter Culture started it. Now every medium-sized city has specialty coffee shops doing single-origin, precise extraction, latte art.

Europe's Coffee Paradox

Europe has incredible cafe culture. Sitting in a Viennese coffee house for hours reading a newspaper, the Italian ritual of standing at the bar for a quick espresso, French sidewalk cafes. The atmosphere is unmatched.

But the coffee itself? Often stuck in second wave (or first wave) thinking. Dark, bitter, roasted months ago, served as fast as possible.

Third wave coffee has been slower to take root in much of continental Europe compared to the US and UK. The movement is happening, but walking around major cities you still find mostly traditional cafes.

It's happening—slowly. But walking around Rome, I found maybe two shops doing specialty coffee. In a city that size? The US equivalent would have dozens.

Why the Lag?

A few theories:

Tradition. Italian espresso culture is a point of pride. Suggesting it could be "improved" doesn't go over well. The traditional roasting and preparation methods are cultural identity.

Different priorities. In the US, specialty coffee often becomes marketing gloss for a culture focused on speed and scale. Europeans prioritize the ritual, the social experience, the pause in the day. Americans optimize the product.

Business model differences. Third wave in the US was driven by rapid expansion, venture capital, franchise models. European cafe culture resists that. Growth is "careful and deliberate, shaped by work-life balance and social protections."

Signs of Change

It's improving. London has been third wave for years—Square Mile, James Hoffmann's influence. The UK's market is actually saturated now.

France and Spain are catching up. The entrepreneurs are often career changers, passionate about quality over growth. Spain especially seems to be in that romantic phase of third wave coffee taking off—what took the UK years may condense into months there.

But when I visited? Still mostly traditional dark roasts.

What I Miss vs What I Appreciate

Miss from US shops:

  • Light roasts that taste like fruit, not char
  • Precise brewing (scales, timers, temperature control)
  • Single-origin options with tasting notes
  • Cold brew done right

Appreciate about European cafes:

  • Actually sitting down (not everything to-go)
  • Reasonable prices (Italian espresso is €1-2)
  • The cafe as social institution, not productivity fuel
  • Not everything needs to be optimized

Finding Good Coffee in Europe

It exists, you just have to hunt:

  • Check specialty coffee maps/apps
  • Look for roasting dates on bags
  • Ask locals (younger ones, usually)
  • Major cities have scenes (London, Berlin, Copenhagen, Amsterdam)
  • Avoid tourist areas

Or just accept the local style. An Italian espresso at a bar counter has its own charm, even if it's not what I'd drink at home.

I just wish I could combine European cafe culture with American coffee quality. The perfect shop would have Vienna's atmosphere, Italian prices, and Portland's beans.

Apparently that's too much to ask.